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Kinetic Sand Art Coffee Table - Self drawing

Easily Build a
MACHINE THAT DESTROYS WHAT IT CREATES
(Kinetic Sand Art Coffee Table)


I’m going to show you exactly how you can easily make your own super cool automated kinetic sand art table step-by-step. Including smart LED lighting 

https://www.youtube.com/diymachines

It is incredibly captivating to be beside this simple DIY wooden table as the steel ball magically carves out an endless and ever changing series of beautiful geometric patterns in the sand.


Downloads:

3D models for printing: https://bit.ly/3h34OT0 

Fusion 360 model: https://a360.co/3eT8mr3

Code for project and sample drawings: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/Kinetic-Sand-Art-Table


Quantity of 3D printed parts required:

  • BaseBoardMount.stl (x1)
  • BeltGrip.stl (x1)
  • ComputerCase.stl (x1)
  • ComputingLid.stl (x1)
  • ControlPanel.stl (x1)
  • GRBLCase.stl (x1)
  • GRBLCaseLid.stl (x1)
  • IdleSupport.stl (x2)
  • LED-Corner.stl (x4)
  • MagnetMount.stl (x1)
  • MotorBaseLeft.stl (x1)
  • MotorBaseRight.stl (x1)
  • PowerPanelCase.stl (x1)
  • PowerPanelLid.stl (x1)
  • WireLoop.stl (x4)
  • X-CarriageMount.stl (x2)

Wiring Diagram and wood cut list:


List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:


To make a table frame which measures roughly 80 x 60cm:

See www.diymachine.co.uk for instructions on how to build a larger or smaller version.



Nuts, bolts and screws needed:

  • M5 x 20mm (x6)
  • M3 x 8mm (x18)
  • M3 x 12mm (x19)
  • M3 nuts (x6)
  • M2.5 bolts for Pi (x4)
  • Short wood screws (x45)
  • Optional pocket hole screws (x24)

Discord Community Server

You will find a very active group of makers who are currently building or have built one of their own kinetic sand tables on the Discord channel for this project: https://discord.gg/JxM3jxFhv8

FAQ

  • What do I need to change to make a larger or smaller kinetic sand art table?

    For the machine to function properly if made larger or smaller than shown in the project documentation then you will need to update some values found in the following places:

    • GRBL on the Arduino Uno.
    • Octoprint on the Raspberry Pi.
    • Sandify when you create your own artwork.

    If you have made one of your linear rails 200mm longer along a direction, then you simply need to add an additional 200mm to each of the default values as shown in the video, or as already set as a default in the code you downloaded from Github.


    To update GRBL, connect to your Arduino Uno using the USB cable and use the Arduino IDE to connect to the UNOs serial interface. If you send the command '$$' it will return it's currnet configuration.  There are two settings that need updating:


    $130= VALUE  (x max travel, mm)

    $131= VALUE (y max travel, mm)


    The value for both settings reflects the maximum distance available to travel on the X axis (side to sde) and the Y axis (up and down). To update the X value just type '$130=335' and send to set the value to 335mm of available travel. Y is set in the same style. You can resend $$ to verify your updated settings have been excepted.


    To update Octoprint, either revise the values when setting up the Default Printer Profile when running though the setup wizard on first boot, or update the values afterwards in'Printer profiles' found in Octoprints settings (the spanner icon at the top of Octoprint).


    In Sandify it's as simple as also increasing the size fo your available drawing area in the 'Machine Tab'.

  • How much filament will I need?

    I used just under 500g of PLA filament to print the parts. 

  • Why does GRBL report error 9 / ALARM:9 ?

    This means that the homing cycle has failed. This is reported when the machine travels further than the value in stored in parameters $130, $131, and $132 whilst trying to trigger the homing switch(s). Check your values in the above parameters are greater than the drawing area of the machine and restart the homing sequence.

  • Can I use a RaspberryPi Zero W?

    A Raspberry Pi Zero W will run the project. You will find Octoprint will take a minute or two to start up when you power on the project, and if you have a very detailed drawing you might see some hesitation in the movement of the ball. This is unlikely though as we are moving the 'head' of the machine much slower than 3D printers and with more coarse details.

    Octoprint will also complain that running on a Zero is not recommended or supported (which I agree with when using it to operate a printer) - but you can silence the nagging pop-up and should be fine.


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